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| Description | Approach | Rock Type |
|---|---|---|
| Big, huge, cavernous Geo with some seroiusly steep shit on the north face and excellent steep faces on the east side. Faces south/west | Boredom inducing Ferry to Barra. Nausea inducing fishing boat to Pabbay. | Gneiss |
The order of the FA Party may be displayed incorrectly.
| Name/Desc. | Grade | Length(m) | Stars | FA Date | FA Party | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Redemption Ark | E6 | 85 | 0 | 00-06-2007 | Niall McNair, Dan McManus | |
| E6 6b, XS. The first route to breach the impressive gothic cave of Banded Geo. The first pitch is 3 * climbing but the next and last pitches deserve an \"XS\" prefix due to Loosness and Wetness. In fact, I would reccommend abbing off after the first pitch! 1. 6b, 25m: At the bottom of the Geo is a boulder choke and the innermost boulder is the size of a small car, start on top of this. Step hard left for 3m into a wildly overhanging groove/corner system and follow this to a wall and an obvious bow shaped crack. Take the crack rightwards and up to step out right under the overhang. Hanging Belay from Good flakes and quartz spikes on the right. 2. 5b, 30m: Traverse left for 4m to a prominent spike, then climb up and over a bulge to reach an obvious but wet and loose traverse leftwards across pink and orange rock. Continue past a detached block for 6m,step down and belay in the black corner. 3. 5c, 30m: Step left and climb the middle and slimmest of the 3 corner crack systems. Continue up this terrifyingly until better rock is reached in a bay. Take the middle groove to grass. Belay anchors another 15m up the hill, sandwhiched between two small boulder. | ||||||
| Jonny Scuttlebutt | E5 | 45 | 3 | 00-06-2007 | Niall McNair, Ali Robb | |
| E5 6a. Climbs the wall right of Ship of Fools. Start as for that route to the roof. At the rib on the lowest point of the roof (good #2 camalot 1m right) gain the wall above. Climb slightly left then follow the line of least resistance to an obvious crack in steep brown rock near the top, up this and then belay. N.B. Named after Jonny Clarke who confused the first part of this line for Ship of Fools only the week before and whose chalk I was following on the \"first\" ascent. | ||||||
| The Geomancer | E7 | 45 | 3 | 00-05-2003 | Niall McNair, Paul Newman | |
| E7/6 6b Takes a stupendous line to the left of Ship of Fools. Start up a black groove until an obvious traverse can be made out to the roof. Tackle the roof via pockets and a small right facing flange (crux. Once on the headwall climb up trending slightly left to head for a large pod/flake. Attack the bulge directly above this to reach the capping roof/corner. Escape rightwards along this to the best belay in the world and with the biggest pump ever! NB: a straightened out version of The Fool of Ships (E6 6b) I accidentily created whilst trying Ship of Fools last year. No falls were taken at all and no pre-inspection. | ||||||
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